Junnar, a pristine paradise nestled in the Western Ghats, has remained relatively untouched by industrialization, preserving its natural beauty, which is rare these days.
As a frequent traveler, exploring new places is in my blood. One friend of mine, Amol Throat, always insists that I must visit Junnar because of my love for nature. I never expected that such a captivating beauty was hiding there for me to discover. Despite living in New Mumbai for years, I had never truly appreciated the wonders of Junnar until I took his invitation seriously.
Without knowing what was hiding at our destination, I started from New Mumbai at 8:30 a.m. We had two route options to Junnar: one via Karjat and another via Pune. I decided on the Karjat route because of its untarnished beauty and less traffic. The scenic views compelled me to stop my vehicle and capture pictures at every turn. The villages we passed by showcased a basic and contented way of life. Most of the people were farmers, relying on agriculture and animal husbandry for their livelihood. One village that stood out was Mhasa, a major trade hub among nearby villages, famous for its ladies’ finger farming. The trading of local fruits and groceries added to the vibrancy of Mhasa.
To my surprise, there were no major shops or towns in Karjat until Murbad was left behind. Even kilometers apart, I couldn’t spot any kind of shops in between. Witnessing such minimal commercial activity in today’s world was refreshing.
Continuing the journey, we reached the mesmerizing Kalyan-Malshis route. This stretch of road, spanning around 15-20 kilometers, was a dense forest teeming with various indigenous mango trees. Local tribal communities skilfully plucked these flavorful mangoes and sold them along the roadside. During the summer season, Malshis Ghat became a paradise of diverse mango varieties. Having driven along this roadway multiple times in May from our farmhouse in Karjat, Saveda Farm, and Cottages, I have personally experienced and relished these mango varieties.
Amidst this natural splendor, I couldn’t resist slowing down to soak in the beauty and engaging in delightful conversations with the villagers and farmers we encountered. One such encounter was with Nanded Chavan, a local farmer, who graciously posed for a photograph after sharing some sweets with him. People here are lively and share happiness more than money. It was a charged moment when I bid him farewell.
Arriving at Malshis Ghats during the monsoon season is a magical experience. The rain poured down relentlessly, inviting travelers to pause and embrace the enchanting downpour. The rocks along the mountains seemed to come alive with cascading waterfalls, creating a breathtaking vista. Nestled among these rocks, a serene Shiva temple provided solace. The temple attracts devotees who stop to offer their prayers. I am not particularly a devotee, yet that place caught my eye. Unlike other temples, it was built in a niche beneath a protruding portion of the hillside. It is believed that the workers, who made the road on the hillside years ago, built the temple for Shiva as a protector.
Shopkeepers running small shops near the temple were the storytellers of the area. Their narration and facial expressions were one of a kind. In the 10 minutes I spent there, I gained a lot of knowledge.
I also noticed a freshwater stream coming from the rocks. Its origin was somewhere at the top of the hill. The water was very cold, refreshing, and sweet. We could understand its purity and cleanliness from the first sip. Nature always renders the best.
After crossing Malshis Ghat, we encountered ongoing road work, making the drive slightly challenging. However, the sight of a stunning blue-colored lake amidst the lush surroundings made it all worthwhile. In the monsoon season, Junnar transforms into a paradise that rivals any foreign destination. The river is surrounded by charming villages with their small houses and agricultural lifestyle that evoke a sense of serenity. Spending 30 minutes exploring the river and its surroundings left me reluctant to leave. The locals took great pride in preserving the beauty of the river.
Continuing our journey, we made our way to Nane Ghat, approximately an hour’s drive from the main road. It is a mountain pass in the Western Ghats range between the Konkan coast and the ancient town of Junnar in the Deccan plateau. The drive itself was a beautiful experience, with numerous mountains and hairpin bends to navigate. Along the way, we encountered small tea shops offering freshly cooked local dishes. The region was adorned with vibrant flower farms and small ponds, making Junnar the perfect place for capturing picturesque moments. Nane Ghat held a unique aura of isolation. It was a tribute to the old trade route built by Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, facilitating the movement of bullock carts during ancient times. The route was carved through a mountain, showcasing the remarkable craft skills of our ancestors. The cave walls are etched with ancient scripts involved in trading. It is the Sanskrit Brahmi script and a middle-Indo-Aryan dialect. These alphabetic and numerical inscriptions have been dated between the 2nd and the 1st century BCE and are attributed to the Satavahana dynasty era. Many decoding trials have been mentioned in the reference textbooks as well as by local guides.
At the entry point, a rock-made collection box served as a trust-based toll collection system, where travelers would place a coin as they crossed. Down the line in the route I could see many small ponds made out of rocks which are grilled now and were once built for travellers to get fresh or quench their thirst. The caves carved out in the belly of huge stones in the hillock are a miracle to decipher and the technique they must have used in a time devoid of technology is highly confusing to resolve.
I could feel the awe and reverence of the ancestors, who had taken a lot of torments to make such majestic pathways, which was the start of one of the major trade resources in Maharashtra. The pass is about 120 kilometers north of Pune and about 165 km east of Mumbai.
On our way, we met a local guide, an elderly man who must be in his 70s, but rigid, stout, and still hiking in the Ghats. He was very enthusiastic about showing us the nearby small dams and waterfalls, which are warm and joyful. The enthusiasm and pride they carry when explaining about their land and cultural evidence are overwhelming.
After crossing Malshis Ghat, during the monsoon season, Junnar witnesses the captivating sight of water flowing in the opposite direction due to the strong currents of wind from the hill foot. It is known as a reverse waterfall. This natural phenomenon attracted tourists from around the world, solidifying Junnar’s position as a renowned tourist destination. A visit to the Lenadry Cave Temples, nestled on a mountain, required a 45-minute uphill walk. These intricately carved temples, built into the rocks, served as a spiritual haven for devotees seeking blessings from Lord Ganapathy. Our journey also took us to Shivneri Fort, a magnificent structure built by Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. We parked our vehicle midway up the mountain and embarked on a one-hour trek to reach the summit. Along the way, we marveled at the remnants of the old fort, a testament to its grandeur. Shivneri Fort also housed ancient caves believed to have been occupied by Buddhist monks seeking spiritual enlightenment during the time of Lord Buddha.
Junnar is home to leopards, and they coexist harmoniously with the villagers. People are sensible about the presence of wildlife and do not roam around late at night. I was surprised to learn about this level of respect for each other, as leopards generally do not come out during the day, and it is allowed for humans. A sensible boundary that is almost invisible these days. As evening fell, we arrived at Amol’s home, encountering a leopard on the way. Junnar is known for its harmonious coexistence with wildlife, and we felt fortunate to witness this majestic creature. I was relentlessly waiting for that moment and wanted to step out of the car to have a closer view. My personal preference is always not to interfere with wildlife as part of the fun, but big cats are always attractive and I wish to see them closer. Amol didn’t allow me to get out of the car. I told him later that, ‘being a human living in the torments of the modern world, I would rather be happy being his supper. Junnar is also renowned for its local rice variety called Indrayani, known for its delicious sweetness. Amol’s wife, Prachi, gave me a feast of this Indrayini rice with dal and some local vegetable delicacies at dinner. That was a real delight.
The locals primarily engage in farming activities, including onion cultivation, sugarcane farming, and rice farming. The abundance of sweet water in Junnar adds to the blessings of this land. Additionally, Junnar is home to the famous Astavinayak Temple in Ozar.
Junnar’s beauty is difficult to put into words, as its charm truly needs to be experienced firsthand. This hidden gem in the Western Ghats offers a glimpse of nature’s wonders that should not be missed.
It is written by Mr. SAJIKUMAR based in MUMBAI
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